Beer Park proudly stocks the largest Belgian beer range in Wales ? Although we also stock the largest Welsh and German range as well as a load of craft beer and cider it is just a joy to introduce Belgian classics to new people and keep old hands well supplied.
We also get asked for advice about Belgian beery destinations which gives me licence to rave about Ghent. So having put pen to paper here’s why we think Ghent is unbeatable.
Ghent is the largest city in East Flanders and placed between Antwerp, Brugge, Brussels and Kortrijk. This central geographical position is also mirrored by the characteristics that make Ghent an optimal destination. Smaller and better preserved than Antwerp, smaller and less grimy than Brussels, less tourist infested than Brugge but retaining a beautiful historical centre.
Ghent comes across as clean, accessible and above all a real city and don’t worry about missing out on other destinations as due to the wonder that is Belgian Rail you can get to each in less than an hour from Gent-St-Pieters. The station is a little out of the centre but easily accessible by tram.
But this is not a travelogue but a blog about beer – and Ghent comes up trumps with a series of classic bars.
The Bars
The first to mention is Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant. Located on the river Leie across the bridge from the Gravensteen Castle with a courtyard in front. Strong beer menu and great service. While you’re there pop in to their neighbour Dreupelkot – a specialist genever bar with a vast range of flavours – some not remotely drinkable.
My go-to bar in Ghent is Dulle Griet on the Vrijdagsmarkt Square – a bit of a maze with rooms and alcoves over a couple of floors. Offering the most beer in Ghent but best known for the “The Holy Grail” – 1.2 litres of Max house beer served in a giant round bottomed “Kwak” style glass. You may be asked for a shoe in exchange for the glass which will be kept in a basket above the bar until the glass is returned. Just a tip – when tilting to drink, maintain an air gap between the beer and the glass or risk a beer shower. Open 7 days a week but tends to be very busy.
Another traditional bruin bar – a little quieter and less touristy than the above is Trollekelder just off Vrijdagsmarkt towards St Jacobskerk. Again, an impressive beer menu and a great place to spend an evening. Open late afternoons til early morning 7 days a week
This triumvirate of beery goodness should keep you going but a few honourable mentions ;
Aba Jour is a modern bar and restaurant on the Oudburg backing on to the Leie with terrace overlooking the canal. Decent beer menu and good honest cooking. Can be a quieter option when Dulle Griet is rammed. Operates a limited opening schedule – Friday to Monday.
As the owner of a beer shop and part-time antiquarian book dealer I’ve often mused about a venue that does both. Le Bal Infernal round the corner from Trollekelder is a used book beer café. Not sure whether it does either terribly well but it is unique and a must visit.
On the same road is a most peculiar (and wonderful) drinking experience if you are lucky enough to find it open. T’Velootje is a bicycle graveyard with seating amidst the remains and in the corner a beer fridge. Last time I went I spent a merry hour risking life and limb whilst being served Delirium Tremens. Several mates have refused to go back but although quite unsanitary it does attract a very friendly and lively crowd.
To only mention six bars certainly does Ghent a disservice but testifies to their quality which has reduced any need to be a beer nomad and explore more widely.
The Breweries
Ghent is also home to a couple of breweries that are worth a visit
Gentse Gruut – the brewery is named for the blend of herbs that was used to favour beer prior to the introduction of the hop and that’s how it brews today. A cracking range of beers and a splendid brewery tour by arrangement. 10 minutes walk from Gravensteen Castle past Sint-Jacobskerk
Dok situated on an old industrial site off the northern ring road but only 10 minutes walk from the centre. A relatively new, more crafty, brewery with a large tap room, undercover outdoor seating and an impressive range of craft beers.
The Beer Warehouses
And if you want to stock up for your return to the UK there are two accessible beer warehouses.
Hopduvel – this is a Ghent institution offering a huge number of beers and glasses. Originally based in a maze of one way streets in the South of Ghent it has recently moved to the Dok Noord shopping centre off the northern ring road (just round the corner from Dok brewery). Drive into the huge underground carpark and look for the Hopduvel signs and trollies – park up and take the lift to the ground floor and the warehouse is outside. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Should Hopduvel be closed then Drink Geers NV is a good alternative only 15 minutes out of the centre in Oostakker.
It’s not all about the beer
Developed around the abbeys of St Peters and St Bavo’s, by the 13th century Ghent flourished to be the largest urban settlement in Northern Europe – primarily from cloth manufacture. Later ruled by the Habsburgs and the birthplace of Charles V who dominated Europe as Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain, the city declined in importance by the 18th century. The advent of industrial cloth manufacturing saw an increase in prosperity and, after the Battle of Waterloo, Ghent and Flanders became part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands for a short time until the independence of the Belgian state in 1830.
As in Brugge, the medieval prosperity and subsequent decline left a marvellous city scape intact. So for fresh air between beers I would suggest:
- Gravensteen Castle – headquarters of the Count of Flanders and now sitting as a medieval hulk amidst the street scene across from the River Leie. A short tour is worth the time in what feels authentic but romantically restored in the late 19th century by Viollet-le-Duc.
- A short walk east of the Gravensteen along the Oudburg takes you to Patershol. Once medieval workers housing it has escaped demolition to become a fascinating maze of streets and alleys with restaurants and bars.Check out Airbnb and you’ll find great places to stay here. Walk further along to Aba Jour and eventually Dok Brewery. My recommendation is one of the two Ghent sites of the Amadeus chain which offers a compelling menu of all you can eat ribs and cumin buttered baked potatoes.
- South from the Gravensteen and across the river you find the Groentenmarkt – the medieval meat market that has been repurposed. A couple of basement bars beneath the market offer a quiet beer with Café Galgenhuis claiming the title as the smallest in Ghent.
- Across from the Groentenmarkt are two great Ghent institutions. A stall selling Cuberdons – fruit flavoured jelly “noses” and Tierenteyn a shop selling mustard by the litre ladled fresh from a barrel.
- Walk down from Groentenmarkt along Hoogpoort towards St Bavo’s Cathedral and a visit to see Hubert and Jan Van Eyck’s altarpiece.Wander back to the Belfort – built as a 300ft tall belfry from 1313 with great views of the city or visit the Stadthuis.
- The riverside Korenlei and Graslei are the medieval ports also offering splendid preserved townscapes but almost any walk in the centre is rewarding.
I hope this inspires you to visit and you find it a useful starting point for a beery trip. I’m sure you’ll be more open-minded than I and explore more broadly away from the limited places set out above. If you do – please let me know what you find.